Performativity is out, Authenticity is in: Why Fashion Consumers care more than ever about brand values

From the billboards at the bus stop, shop window displays, and influencer endorsements, to the intermittent ads that pop up mid-scroll on Instagram, it’s safe to say marketing is a key fixture of our everyday lives, with brands fighting to curate an appealing image. According to The Ipsos Global Trends Report 2023, “Authenticity is a vital concept for brands to understand,” with 52% of consumers globally stating they are willing to pay extra for a brand image that appeals to them. Awareness of social issues is becoming increasingly ingrained in the modern consumer. Their key concerns? Sustainability and inclusivity. More brands are making attempts to endorse these values, but how can this be done successfully in fashion? Let’s start by looking at where it hasn’t.

After a PR crisis, a brand’s first thought is recovery, which in some cases appears to take precedence over meaningful change. In a scrambling attempt to piece together a response that redeems its brand image, many forget what is key to regaining favour with consumers in the modern-day fashion climate: authenticity. We have seen this just in the past year with the rebranding of Victoria’s Secret.

A month after the release of Victoria’s Secrets’ long-awaited documentary “The Tour 23”, CEO Martin Waters acknowledged the rebranding didn’t see the expected success, saying, “Despite everyone’s best endeavours, it’s not been enough to carry the day.” This came after waves of backlash online over the brand’s seemingly performative attempts at becoming more diverse. Fans eagerly awaited the return of Victoria’s Secret to the public eye, with some suspecting the release of “The Tour 23” would be a return to the world-famous Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show that was cancelled in 2018 after controversial comments made by the then chief marketing officer of L Brands, Ed Razek.

The controversy surrounded a lack of inclusivity in the shows and no intention of evolution or addressing consumer concerns in including plus-size or transgender models. This was a major error in strategy that didn’t cater to the modern cultural climate in fashion. Razek said to Vogue in 2018: “We market to who we sell to, and we don’t market to the whole world… Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy.” This anti-inclusivity rhetoric caused many to turn their backs on the brand. Modern-day consumers don’t want to see idleness and
indifference to social issues, and certainly not regressive ideas such as those presented by Razek. Consumers want to engage with brands whose ideology they resonate with.

After “The Tour 23” was released, it wasn’t long before criticism started pouring in. The Victoria’s Secret rebrand was a long time in the making. Following its past controversy, Victoria’s Secret had been looking to modernise and tailor its brand message to a wider consumer base, but people were left feeling as though the brand’s turnaround wasn’t entirely authentic, with “The Tour 23” receiving a rating of 2.3 out of 10 on IMDB.

Some critiques highlighted that the documentary didn’t feel true to the brand’s heritage. Following designers and creatives from four major cities: Bogota, Lagos, London, and Tokyo. The documentary at times felt as though it had little to do with Victoria’s Secret, telling the stories of creatives it didn’t feel qualified to. While the documentary successfully platformed these diverse creatives, it felt very detached from the brand and how they had learnt or changed. “The modern consumer is
informed… Tickbox activations are never going to perform well,” says Gareth Edwards, Public Relations and Communications lecturer at London College of Fashion. “It fell flat and felt forced, ” says Gareth. “Despite employing a huge number of zeitgeist models and a glittering launch… it didn’t feel like a moment.

So where did they go wrong? “Rebranding is always difficult and not something that can be achieved quickly,” says Edwards. “Consumers want to see evolving brands rather than immediate ‘brand directed’ reinvention.” By cancelling their iconic fashion show, Victoria’s Secret did a complete image turnaround, which may not have played in their favour. Bernard Garby, fashion influencer and luxury fashion sales executive at Elle Magazine, says, “They listened to too many voices, forgetting about who they truly were. The beauty of success in fashion is listening to voices and seeing what is out there, but still
remaining true to your identity.”

Identity and values are what shape a brand and, ultimately, what draws a consumer base. Gen Z, accounting for 40% of the global consumer base, is undoubtedly setting the standard for fashion labels’ social and ethical considerations. According to WGSN, in the UK and US, inclusivity is Gen Z’s second largest priority (under the environment) when selecting initiatives they care about when making a purchase. In fact, with 31% of Gen Z consumers listing inclusivity as a priority, they are the group most focused on this initiative when analysing the market overall.

When we look at other brands, we can start to get a picture of how diversity can be done authentically. Garby highlights Calvin Klein as a brand that is inclusive through their marketing and the products they offer, while being widely perceived as sexy. True inclusivity comes not only from the brand image and marketing, but also from offering an equal experience to all consumers. Bernard reflects this saying: “It’s a fact that the (Victoria’s Secret) show wasn’t ethically correct when it came to diversity and representation, but I heard more people complaining about their actual product quality, sizing issues, and oldschool 2000s vibe interior at the store.” He recounts a conversation with Ron Finestone, the president of the G-lll group’s Outerwear, who owns Calvin Klein, saying, “G-lll is a group of brands, all under one roof, all influenced by the same trends, but still producing different collections—they’re all trendy but in their own way that is organic to each brand’s DNA.”

People didn’t want to see the Victoria’s Secret Angel eradicated, they just wanted the fantasy to be open to all. Completely changing the core of a brand is not the answer, understanding how that core can be retained while becoming representative of the wider messages that are important to your consumer is key.

This isn’t to say that any brand is past a comeback. We have seen Victoria’s Secret listen to the complaints and are likely to witness its redemption with the return of its fashion show this October, showing that it’s never too late for a turnaround. However, there are lessons to be learnt that earning the trust of your consumers takes time and an authentic approach. Gareth says, “You cannot simply put out one message. Treat the brand as a person, we have great moments, good moments, and transformative moments.”