“Modelling was Difficult. I needed to be my own Boss”, says owner of Parisian Boutique

The pace of the fashion industry has never been faster than it is today in 2023, witnessing change driven by sustainability, technology and a celebration of individuality. Creatives making a path for themselves is beginning to be praised, and somebody doing just that is Paris-born Alyx Karlier.

Shop owner, photographer, stylist and curator, only to name a few of Karlier’s roles, sits down with me (via FaceTime) to talk about what it’s like being a young self-employed woman in fashion, her journey so far, and the good in not settling in a career just because It’s going well; showing that fulfilment is worth more than a pay check.

Prior to my visit to Paris in 2022 I had already planned to stop off at Palace Callas; a designer vintage store, not too far from the Louvre, with stock newly available online as well as in-store . Owned and curated by Alyx Karlier, Palace Callas was different to any other shop I’d visited. Despite the Gaultier dresses and Prada heels sitting proudly on the shelves and hangers, paired with the stylish workers and customers dotted around the shop, I didn’t feel out of place as I so often do in shops of this stature. I felt comfortable and most importantly welcome in what felt like a big sister or cool cousins wardrobe (minus the threats thrown if I dared to ask to borrow a top from them).

After speaking with Alyx, it was clear that this ethos came naturally to the shop as it’s a reflection of herself; open to talk and not giving ‘a shit’ whether I have a background or a well-connected name in the industry; she was just happy to talk. After bonding over our love for horses, we spoke about her childhood and journey so far as a creative in fashions evolving industry. From the struggles of opening a vintage shop one month before 2020’s lockdown to the reality of curating clothes through her personal lens and having to sell them. Alyx shows that you don’t have to stick to one job working in fashion, cultivating branding of her vintage shop through her interest in photography and styling. By utilising different mediums to portray her vision, she’s an example that authenticity is the only thing you need to keep up with the industry’s high demands and to create bodies of work you are truly proud of.

In Conversation

Alyx: Before Palace Callas I was a modelling and travelling to different places, but I didn’t like being bossed around, being told “do this do that” especially with my body. At some point I was like okay I need to be my own boss. Modelling was difficult because if you talk its rude if you get involved in the creative pre planned process its rude, but that’s what I wanted to be a part of. It was funny because the first creative thing I done for myself was photography but I realised I was smarter to start with clothes. Vintage was always an option, and I was a really big vintage shopper. I tried to do something where I could balance my photography with having a store, styling with money coming in.

Jasmine: Through Palace Callas shows you can see that you have a interest outside of curation, especially back in September and your fashion week inspired photoshoots presenting clothes from the stores collection; it looked like real backstage styling cards I wasn’t sure whether you actually did have a show!

Alyx: I love confusion so much, your perception is exactly what I was going for, it means a lot that it was conveyed. Since I was like 10 years old, I would grab my girls and be like were doing a photoshoot today. I have this power where I see people for what they are, and I know how to translate that through photos. I know it touched a lot of women, especially when we do intimate session with just me and the girl who I’m shooting, no styling or makeup artist, it’s just us we create something beautiful that looks like them. I love that so much.

Jasmine: You are creating your own universe, acting as creative director. Have you always been interested in fashion?

Alyx: Even though I was born in Paris, I wasn’t a cool kid at all, I was in my own bubble and really insecure. I was a horse-riding girl! I was a real kid, I liked mud on my shoes you know. Then at some point phones got into my world and I felt it so much. Social pressure and oh fuck like I’m 15-16, girls are starting to get sexual around me but I’m not thinking about any of that right now. I missed out a little bit.

I think the starting point of getting into fashion was modelling, which started when I cut my hair actually, I had long blonde hair; I looked like a little princess it was beautiful. I really looked 15 when I was 18 then I decided to cut it off and it was the best decision of my life honestly. I used to be so impulsive but now with the store I really have to think about things before I do them.

Jasmine: Palace Callas opened in 2020, that must’ve been difficult to handle, how is it now the effects of Covid have settled?

Alyx: Opening the store one month before Covid was something unexpected, obviously it made it super hard to get in, but I enjoy vintage so much. I enjoy the part where we source, we have this aesthetic in mind for example Celine with Phoebe Philo and stuff like that. When you have to sell a vision you have made it breaks your heart. You know like taking about money all day, organising, I’m a free spirit, I like to be a little bit crazy. I can’t feel like I have to be accessible and available to clients every day, it can get a lot. I’m such a creative person and having a store is bringing so much business in my life, you know and I’m good at it, but I don’t like it.

I really appreciate it when people come into the store for the clothes but I can see such a big difference in my clients between the ones who want to show off and the ones who actually work in it.

Jasmine: Where you work in the shop, you directly see the relationship between the clothing and the customer, at times it must get frustrating.

Alyx: Exactly, I feel like if I wasn’t such a sensitive person I wouldn’t care you know. Also the fact that we always try to be fair on prices because here in Paris they can be crazy for designer vintage. We have affordable pieces so they tend to go fast. I wanted to create that experience where women like us, who are still young, but we have a budget can be comfortable with buying an item. We like this balance of fair prices and a place where you feel comfortable. Too many stores make you feel like you don’t belong, I feel pressured into feeling like I’m not even worth spending time in them.

Jasmine: what are your plans moving forward, with the shop and your side projects, I have seen an account ran by you called Just a fucking human project, what is the plan for that?

Alyx: It was my way to not pressure myself with the reception of my photos, whether they do well or not you know, it’s my art and genius. It has pictures of the project’s I’ve had all year where I was experimenting with prints on different materials. I shot portraits of girls, mostly my friends, and I try and print them on leather and cotton. With cotton it’s really easy but leather it’s so hard.

I thought about taking it into a more fashion direction, maybe having the models wear my leather prints but I’m so not ready for that yet. I’ve just been making them for fun, it is just a human project you know!

For the future, I think I’m going to focus on photos, I know that a lot of photographers will agree with me on this, but I feel this imposter syndrome. You don’t know when you’re ready to tell the world “I’m a photographer, I can take that photo” but you have to just do it. Nobody can tell you you’re ready until you have decided you are.